I just recently got into using a bike for commuting and I was wondering if this is a good way to secure my bike? I know, previously, people would recommend only needing to lock the back tire to a solid object, but I’ve seen videos of people easily cutting the back tire, breaking it and taking the frame/front tire. My method of locking is sort of similar, except I do lock around the splash guard. If this isn’t very secure, I’d have to get a longer ulock or chain, because there doesn’t appear to be an easy way for me to lock around the back tire, frame and solid object with my current ulock. Any suggestions are appreciated.
That’s a classy bike. Where I live you can’t even leave your bike fully locked up though. I can bring my bike inside at my current job but I would drive otherwise.
Cordless angle grinder and a CD case of cutting wheels and the vast majority of locks can be cut like butter. Aluminum needs a different cutting disc and can explode the ones for steel. When considering the lock that has multiple metals to contaminate cutting wheels for an outdoor project, we tried cutting stacks of aluminum and stainless. It’s an improvement but if someone has discs to swap for and familiarity with the tools and metals I’d say it could still be done under 15 minutes. If they are just druggies the mixed metal one could gum up the discs and take maybe up to 45 min if they don’t realize they have the wrong tool config.
Hopefully your area doesn’t have overly capable assholes though. Or maybe cops that are better than what we have.
Thank you. I’m definitely not certain how bad thieves are in downtown LA. Overnight it’s locked up inside with limited access, but if I want to take my bike somewhere, I’d hope i can leave it locked up for a while, and having it in a populated place locked like this would be a sufficient enough deterent.
I don’t know what bike theft is like in your area, but here in nl all bikes have a rear lock that’s mounted to the bike
to keep the rear wheel secure. In the big cities people also usually attach their bikes to solid objects using a chain through the frame and the front wheel. I would be more concerned about your lock- such string locks are very easy to cut through with a bolt cutter. My recommendation would be to get a strong chain link lock with a plastic sleeve. I’m sure you can find such locks online where you live.
Lot of good advice here, but I’ll add that no lock is perfect. If someone wants your bike, they will take it. This is good enough to keep someone from walking away with your bike, but anyone with tools can break any bike lock on the market.
Just keep that in mind when you’re spending time and energy, and especially money, protecting your bike. It’s a very nice bike, but it is replaceable if the worst should happen.
As others have said, U-lock through frame and rear wheel if possible. Otherwise not bad. I’ve also taken to using a motion detector alarm on my last bike packing trip.
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07MFBV7TW?psc=1&ref=ppx_yo2ov_dt_b_product_detailsI can vouch for those alarms! I’ve got one on all of my bikes an e-scooters. If you’ve got a rear rack, you can mount it to the underside of the top rack deck, so it’s harder to disable. But the alarm + 1 or two locks is a really good option to keep things secure.
*vouch
Which accent is it in?
Depends on what I’ve eaten.
The front wheel is correct but I would move the D lock at the back. It is only round a wheel and a mudguard.
Your current method means the frame could be stolen by undoing the wheel bolts and lifting away. Can’t see exactly how the mudguards are fixed and they might complicate it a bit but not much.
I’d suggest low on the seat tube just above the chain ring and then loop the cable round the front and back wheels and into the D lock.
Edit: forgot. Don’t bother looping up through the seat like that. If they want to steal that with the cable there it’s only two bolts. It’s only one without the cable but if you were still worried you can get security seatpost bolts
I was always taught to lock around the wheel, frame, and whatever you’re locking to. Just two points leaves something vulnerable
I second the part about not bothering looping up through the saddle. It would also give a bit more play with the cable allowing the D lock to be moved to a better position.
they can’t just undo some bolts and lift away, they have to cut either the wheel or the lock itself.
it’s a safe method recommended by sheldon brown
Should have said, unbolt and damage the wheels then lift away.
Which could be done with a spanner and by standing on the back wheel to squash it to an oval and push it through.
So then you’re buying a hardened D lock and making it as strong as an aluminium and rubber wheel. If they have very basic cutters they are through both wheels in seconds and can lift the bike away. Leaving the lock intact on the bar.
No point in having a hardened lock if it is going to be used like this. Just buy a bargain basement long cable lock as all the benefits of the hardened D are being removed.
very basic cutters that cut through both wheels in seconds
i would like to see that.
Are you writing from some experience or is this theoritical?
Never seen anyone actually doing it but have seen the results. If they are serious bike thieves they will take as much as they can as quickly as they can.
They’ll make a quick assessment. I can get all of a bike apart from the wheels quickly with very little noise vs spending the time dealing with the hardened lock. They will go for the quicker and quieter option.
I’m sorry I don’t understand, why is looping the cable through the seat a bad idea? Cable lock isn’t much, I agree, but i figure it at least stops someone with just an Alan wrench from taking my seat post, and would also need a cable lock cutter.
They don’t need cable cutters. They can just undo one of the bolts holding the seat together, pull the cable out and then undo the seat post bolt to remove the seat. So all you’ve really done is have them undo an extra bolt. No need to cut the cable.
Keep more cable for securing both wheels and D lock frame to post. If they’re really bothered about the seat get a security seat post bolt.
times have changed but sheldon’s pages are still a relatively good source for bicycles
that thin cable is better than nothing and i too use it sometimes but you shouldn’t trust it.
security of your bike depends on where you lock it more than how you lock it. Most of the time a uLock around the rear wheel through the frame is enough (even in paris!)
