I had a similar issue when I initially installed Klipper on my Ender 3 S1 (not the plus). It would not connect unless I fully restarted Octoprint whenever I turned on the printer. The change I needed to make was go into settings in Octoprint (though I assume its similar on other front ends), and add the following settings:
Serial Port: /tmp/printer
Baud Rate: 11520

If that is not the case for you, try to add some more details. Do you have the config file correct?

.05 on my ender 3 s1 sounds perfect based on the tolerance tests I’ve run. Thanks!

Thats a very fair point. I’ve done tolerance tests with mine and can get away with 0 with some encouragement and .05 just fine. Thanks!

Just curious, when making this how much tolerance did you account for? I want to make some for baseball teams, but wasn’t sure how much to add.

Shouldnt be the filament then. I would make sure the probe is fully secured like the other comment suggested. Good luck, that sounds frustrating! I need to adjust mine, but usually after printing for a couple weeks.

What type of material are you printing? Could be the material is eating away at the brass nozzle causing you to need to adjust the z offset.

Similar results with my Ender 3 S1. Highly recommend!

Oh dang, I misread another comment you made. With regular stain the longer you leave on usually the darker it just makes it appear. But as long as you fully wiped off the excess after it should have worked out. That said I’ve only used stain on actual wood. Haven’t tried printing wood PLA yet.

Great for fixing items around the house. Anything that is plastic or could be replaced with plastic can usually be printed. Also great for hardware and jigs. I’ve had mine for a bit over a month now and have been constantly running it. Check out printables or thingiverse to get an idea of what people are printing. Both are websites people upload models to.

Do it! I recently purchased one and love it. Feel free to ask questions if you have any.

I think that might be your issue. Gel stain from minwax should be wiped off after 3 minutes. Anything longer can cause the issue you are experiencing. I would try to wipe/sand off the finish and start again. On a side note, we need to do that to our banister/railing in this house. The previous owner of the house apparently liked the THICK look of the gel stain.

How long did you leave the stain on before wiping it?

The same can be said about Lemmy.

There are European based seed banks. Also they share a border with the Netherlands.

We make a homemade version of the canes sauce. It’s just a bunch of standard condiments. Before that I had family mail me bags of it from Zaxby’s (same sauce). They would sell them massive camelback like bladders full of sauce.

What do you consider performing better if emulated? Most switch games look and perform better on PC already due to upscaling. Some obviously have issues rendering though.

It’s a joke from South Park

If you live near a Microcenter you can get it for even cheaper: https://www.microcenter.com/site/content/specialoffer3dprinter3i.aspx
This deal is not always limited to new customers. I bought a month or so ago on sale at this price and I shop there regularly.

Run the auto level on the printer. Once it finishes it will zero out where it thinks the z is. You can then adjust it down to the correct level. Too high, stuff won’t adhere to the plate. Too low, it squishes it. Just right, and you get the picture.
You can use a piece of paper as a guide or a feeler gauge if you have one. I’d imagine the steps are very similar on the s1 pro.

I have the S1 (non pro version). I purchased it around a month ago and have been loving it! Sure, it requires a little bit of tinkering, but ultimately if I have the z-offset correct for the first layer, it prints great. I imagine there are quicker printers out there, and ones that have more features. But for an entry printer, I cant complain. If you have any questions, feel free to reach out!